Bodegas Manzanos’ Voché Selección is a Rioja with a lot to say. The 95-point 2014 is a powerful, dark-fruited wine from one of the most stunning vineyards in the region—and a grape that’s rarely bottled on its own. It’s also one of the most impressive values in Rioja, bearing a polish, pedigree, and bottle-age that we seldom see at a fill-the-cellar price.

It’s 100% Graciano—a variety that makes up less than 2% of the area’s acreage (and an even smaller number of its bottlings)—from an ancient planting of the grape. That’s earned it an intense following among Spanish enophiles, who love Manzanos’ unique take on the country’s most prestigious region.